The Kering group is redoubling its efforts in the jewelry sector. After the comprehensive renovation of the historic Boucheron store at 26 Place Vendôme, and the opening next door of a store for Chinese jeweler Qeelin, both labels owned by Kering, on Tuesday the luxury group inaugurated the very first fine jewelry boutique by Gucci, located at number 16 on the same, mythical Parisian square.
The inauguration also marks the launch of Gucci’s fine jewelry line, with a first collection designed by Alessandro Michele, creative director of the Kering group’s leading label. The new line is available at the place Vendôme boutique alongside Gucci’s gold jewelry.
The collection, called Hortus Deliciarum, consists of over 200 pieces, the majority of them unique. They are all made in Italy and predominantly feature colored gems. For this project, Alessandro Michele has delved into the depths of his eclectic imagination, picking out “designs that are dear to him and are now part of the canon of [Gucci’s] iconography,” stated the label in a press release.
The designs center around three themes (eternal love, the animal kingdom, and solitaires), reinterpreted through the prism of a mythical garden. “Each gem is uniquely defined, a manifestation of what Alessandro Michele calls ‘discordant symmetry’, and each is mounted in a slightly different manner, embodying the spirituality of imperfection,” wrote Gucci.
Among the stones chosen by Michele are honey-colored imperial topazes, pink topazes, green tourmalines, mandarin garnets, white diamonds, pink and blue sapphires, iridescent opals and yellow beryls. The collection is rich, sophisticated, its pieces seemingly unearthed in a mysterious ancient kingdom.
Gucci underlined that all the gold bought by the label since November 2015 for the manufacture of its jewels is certified and guaranteed as being responsibly sourced. Equally, all of the diamonds bought by Gucci come from legally certified sources.
Unlike Gucci’s other stores, the interiors of the place Vendôme boutique have a rather understated feel. The jewels are displayed within dark wood cabinets upholstered in faded green satin, to enhance the brilliance of the gemstones. The black and white marble-tiled floor, the ceiling mirrors and the drapery all contribute to giving the store the look of an antique showcase.
In the last two years, Kering has refocused on its luxury business, selling off sports apparel and equipment brand Puma. Until now, Kering’s fashion and leather goods labels have been given priority, but the time has come to grow the jewelry and watches segments too. Something that Kering’s CEO François-Henri Pinault spelled out very clearly at the publication of the group’s annual results: the launch of a fine jewelry line “will further strengthen Gucci’s very high-end positioning.”
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