British photographer Simon Procter clearly recalls the moment he was invited into Karl Lagerfeld’s inner sanctum in Paris to discuss his latest project, Lagerfeld: The Chanel Shows.
In a fascinating glimpse behind the Haute Couture doors of the late fashion icon, Simon tells Tatler; ‘He had this persona of being very charming and he was – he was one of the nicest men I ever worked with. When he was behind closed doors in his Paris studio he was very different, quite powerful and he looked bigger somehow.
‘Being invited into his office to chat about ideas for this picture book and exhibition was like being invited into the court of Louis XIV.
‘It was night time and he had 70 people there from his inner sanctum, all confidantes waiting for 20 seconds of his time. Drinks were going around, Karl was in his studio shooting one of the 20 models for a campaign, then he would come out to chat to someone while they changed for the next shot, or someone would hold a phone up to him and he would start talking Russian. He had about 50 things happening at once and it felt like a party, not work, with Karl holding court. It was an incredible thing to have seen.’
KARL LAGERFELD ABOVE THE CHANEL LOGO DURING THE HAUTE COUTURE FALL / WINTER 2004/2005 SHOW AT THE ATELIERS BERTHIER, PARIS
Sadly Karl passed away before he could finish the foreword to Simon’s book, but he had given his blessing to the tome. The images, along with never-before-seen shots, can be now seen in an exhibition, which despite the current Coronavirus crisis still launched this week at the Four Seasons London, where it will remain on display until the end of May.
Calling from the outskirts of Paris, where he is in self-isolation with his family, Simon is disappointed that travel restrictions meant he couldn’t return to the UK to make the launch. But he hopes his show will give people some escapism from the current climate.
His accent flips from a thick French ‘Allo’ to a Northern twang as he tells of the incredulous stroke of luck that led the boy from Barnsley to become one of Karl Lagerfeld’s most trusted Chanel photographers.
Having only dabbled with a camera previously, the fine art student’s life was changed forever after befriending one of the owners of V Magazine, an influential American fashion magazine, in the office where he was temping.
CHANEL HIGH LINE, READY TO WEAR SS 2007, SIMON PROCTER
‘I’d never really picked up a camera before, but he asked if I fancied having a go at shooting the Chanel show from high up. The usual photographers were more interested in getting close up for the details of the clothes, or the models,’ said Simon. ‘But I went along with my own instincts, using an old camera I had bought from eBay, and then played around with the composition. They told me Karl loved it and it all went from there.’
Within weeks he was flown to New York, where he stopped traffic in Times Square for an iconic shoot with the fashion legend, and was handed an open invitation to shoot all Chanel runway shows.
CHANEL VILLA, HAUTE COUTURE SS 2019, SIMON PROCTER
‘I knew the New York show was make or break for me. Karl was incredible to work with, I’ve never worked with anyone like him before or since.
‘He was a photographer himself, but said, “You’re in charge, tell me what to do and I’ll do it,” and he shook hands with every single member of the team before going to work.
‘We couldn’t believe we pulled off the shoot in New York – it was such good fun bringing Times Square to a complete standstill with 10 models and Karl, who was very positive, always laughing. I was super proud.
‘After the shoot, he sent me a handwritten note to thank me, which I’ve framed. I remember opening this letter thinking ‘what’s this?’ and then seeing the silver embossed K of his letterhead at the top. That was such a classy thing to do.
CHANEL CAMBON, HAUTE COUTURE SS 2010, SIMON PROCTER
Having shot the final Lagerfeld show following the designer’s death in 2019, Simon is now working on a movie project and getting back to sculpture again, one of which appears in the exhibition.
And he has inspiring words of advice for any budding photographer or artist waiting for their big break; ‘I never followed the crowds. I did things my own way rather than follow established patterns. I always had a hunger to try new things and I suppose it shows that anything can happen if you want it enough.’
Lagerfeld: The Chanel Shows is at Four Seasons Hotel London at Ten Trinity Square until May 2020.
Chanel Rocket – Ready to Wear, Fall 2017/2018, SIMON PROCTER
Chanel Cambon, Haute Couture SS 2010, SIMON PROCTER
Chanel Garden – Haute Couture, SS 2018, SIMON PROCTER
