According to Tory Burch herself, the Fall/Winter 2017 display gathered inspiration from the fearlessness and irreverence of Katharine Hepburn’s character in The Philadelphia Story. Her outdoor glamour combined with a confident femininity creates a modern take on the familiar style of Tory Burch’s own roots in Philadelphia.
“We played with the idea of Fair Isle knits, barn jackets, and winter whites and thought about contrast, creating variations on a theme: plaid tweeds, prints, and enlarged in shearling,” says Burch,”Accessories complete the story, from bow shoes and soft mens briefcases to a pendant necklace inspired by my fathers cigarette lighter.”
The collection fuses masculine and feminine elements, evoking Philadelphias chic outdoor glamour. A blouse with an exaggerated bow tops menswear-inspired pants with a refined fit; a sporty bomber is paired with a pleated skirt. Sweaters, from Fair Isle to cardigans, have a nostalgic appeal, but the play on proportion is relevant for today. Evening wear jumpsuits and easy, long-sleeved gowns epitomize tomboy-chic. Elegant heels take on menswear-inspired details, like loafer-inspired fringe and broguing, while an unstructured briefcase is printed with the first stanza of Ithaka, Burches favorite poem and an hommage to her family history.
In Ithaka by C.P. Cavafy, an unnamed narrator offers perspective to the Homeric warrior Odysseus, as he continues his long, homeward journey. It seems an appropriate choice: grandly ambitious yet deeply personal. Odysseus, of course, battled unexpected foes and suffered betrayals. But he was also canny. He benefited from a little magic and the occasional divine blessing. History remembers him as a hero. But do not hurry the voyage/It is better to let it last for long years, the poem says. And even to anchor at the isle when you are old, rich with all that you have gained on the way.
Tory Burch, New York, September 2017